Pork Chop Charcutière with Mashed Potatoes

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Steps

1. 1
   Prepare the brine: dissolve salt in water at a 10% ratio. Clean the pork chops by removing the periosteum (membrane covering the bone) — score along the bone and peel it off. Submerge chops in the brine for 1 hour and 15 minutes.

   Tip: The brine seasons the meat throughout and improves juiciness. Look for the meat turning a ham-like pink color as a sign it's ready.

   ~75 min
2. 2
   Make the mashed potatoes: cook yellow potatoes by steaming, baking, or microwaving — never boil them as they absorb water and become gluey. Press cooked potatoes through a ricer. Heat cream with butter and a generous amount of freshly grated nutmeg. Fold the pressed potatoes into the cream mixture, season with salt. Reserve for later, reheating with a splash more cream and butter before serving.

   Tip: The purée should be thick and spreadable — almost like a custard — not soupy. Papa amarilla is ideal; huamantanga is a good substitute.

   ~20 min
3. 3
   Remove chops from brine and dry thoroughly with a clean towel. Moisture is the enemy of browning. Cure a steel pan by heating it very hot with vegetable oil to seal the pores.

   Tip: Optionally dust the chops with flour before searing for extra crust, as Chef Jacques taught — though here the flour goes into the sauce instead.

   ~5 min
4. 4
   Sear the chops in a generous amount of olive oil over very high heat (past the smoke point, above 190°C). Sear 3-4 minutes per side. After the first flip, add butter and thyme sprigs. Baste (nourish) the chops continuously with the thyme-perfumed butter using a spoon. Check internal temperature — remove at 52-58°C.

   Tip: Olive oil handles high temperatures better than pure butter. Adding butter after gives Maillard browning from animal fat caramelizing with proteins. Internal temp of pork should never exceed 63°C.

   ~8 min
5. 5
   Rest the chops on a rack, cover loosely with aluminum foil leaving space underneath for steam to escape so the crust stays crispy. The residual heat will continue cooking the meat. Reserve the resting juices for the sauce.

   Tip: Resting allows internal juices to redistribute. If you cut immediately, all the liquid escapes. The meat continues cooking as it rests — factor this into your target temperature.

   ~8 min
6. 6
   Make the charcutière sauce: discard excess fat from the searing pan but keep the caramelized fond. Add a knob of butter and sauté the diced onion, using its moisture to deglaze and lift the fond from the pan. Add flour and stir to create a roux, letting it toast. Season with salt, pepper, and thyme.

   Tip: Those browned bits (fond) on the pan are pure flavor — caramelized protein. The onion's water content helps lift them off the pan surface.

   ~5 min
7. 7
   Deglaze with dry white wine (traditionally cider) and stir well, letting the alcohol evaporate. Gradually add the dark beef stock, whisking to prevent lumps. Bring to a strong boil, add the reserved resting juices from the chops. Reduce until it reaches a sauce consistency (look for 'frog eyes' — large lazy bubbles).

   Tip: At this point you have a velouté — one of the five French mother sauces. Adding stock gradually (less to more) prevents lumps. Use a whisk if needed.

   ~8 min
8. 8
   Reduce heat to minimum. Stir in Dijon mustard (this transforms the velouté into a sauce Robert). Add the brunoise-cut pickles and chopped chives (this transforms it into sauce charcutière). Season with freshly ground black pepper. Remove the thyme sprig. Finish by stirring in a small knob of cold butter off the heat to give the sauce shine and body (monter au beurre).

   Tip: Add mustard on very low heat to prevent it from splitting. The sauce evolution: velouté → sauce Robert (+ mustard) → sauce charcutière (+ pickles).

   ~3 min
9. 9
   Plate: reheat the purée with a splash of cream and butter. Place a generous mound of thick mashed potato on the plate. Sauce the plate (make a mirror) — pour the charcutière sauce around the purée, not over the chops. Place the rested chops on top. Garnish with halved cherry tomatoes and watercress for freshness. Finish with flaky salt and freshly ground pepper on the chops.

   Tip: Sauce the plate, not the meat — you worked hard on that sear and don't want to hide it. Cherry tomatoes and watercress add freshness to balance the rich, intense flavors.

   ~5 min

Nutrition (per serving)

Giacomo Bocchio

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