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Visiting the Marqués Cariñoso Bodega in Tacna — Wines, Pisco & Cocktails
Giacomo Bocchio visits the Marqués Cariñoso winery in Tacna, Peru, guided by María Isabel, the woman behind the bodega. The visit covers the production facility including the copper alembic still used for pisco distillation, the aging and bottling area, and a full tasting of their wine line 'Viñas del Marqués' — including Moscato de Austria, Negra Criolla, and Pinot Noir — plus three signature cocktails made at the bodega bar.
Ingredients
No ingredients listed
Steps
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1When visiting a traditional Peruvian bodega, start with a tour of the production area. Look for the copper alembic still (alambique de cobre), which is required by Peruvian technical standards for pisco distillation. Copper is preferred because it facilitates temperature regulation during the distillation process.Tip: The copper alembic heats the fermented grape must; vapor rises, condenses, and exits as raw pisco. After distillation, pisco must rest a minimum of 3 to 6 months before bottling.
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2Explore the aging and storage zone (zona de guarda) where finished products are kept. Bodegas often produce a range that includes not just wines and pisco, but also cream liqueurs — such as crema de café — and fruit macerations.Tip: Ask about seasonal production: during certain times of year there may be no active fermentation, and all stock will be aged and ready for tasting.
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3When tasting Moscato de Austria, approach it with an open mind. Despite its highly aromatic nose that signals sweetness, this is actually a dry wine. It pairs beautifully with seafood — shrimp (camarones) or light fish dishes — and with savory corn cake (pastel de choclo salado). For a sweet corn cake, opt for a dessert wine instead.Tip: Moscato de Austria belongs to the same family as Moscatel de Alejandría and Moscato di Amburgo — they are related varietals with different regional expressions. The Tacna version has its own distinct identity.
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4When tasting Negra Criolla — the traditional 'vino de chacra' (field wine) of Tacna — pay attention to its deeply tannic, chewy character. Though the color may appear lighter, its tannin structure is robust and pairs perfectly with spicy dishes (picante) and fatty meats like lamb (cordero). This is the wine that defines Tacna's unique wine culture.Tip: Tacna is the only city in Peru where the typical dish is eaten with wine rather than beer or chicha de jora. This wine-with-food culture is a defining characteristic of Tacneño identity.
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5When ordering the bodega's 'Capitán del Sur' cocktail, expect a softer, more accessible take on the classic Capitán. The standard Capitán is pisco with vermouth — bold and potent. The Capitán del Sur version substitutes damasco (apricot) liqueur for vermouth, making it fresher, lighter, and more approachable for all palates. It is served chilled without ice.Tip: The classic Capitán cocktail is one of Peru's most iconic cocktails alongside the Pisco Sour. Substituting vermouth with fruit liqueurs is a creative way to soften the profile while keeping the pisco-forward structure.
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6For the Pisco Sour variation, look for creative interpretations that honor the cocktail's history. The Día del Pisco Sour is celebrated on the first Friday after August 22nd (the birth date of Victor Vaughen Morris, the cocktail's creator). One celebrated version adds caramelized pineapple slices to the presentation, inspired by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino's research.Tip: The Pisco Sour was created by Victor Vaughen Morris in Lima. Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino researched this history and created a special commemorative version with caramelized pineapple.
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7When exploring Tacna's wine culture, seek out producers working with Pinot Noir — a rare French variety that has found a unique expression in Tacna's terroir. Unlike Pinot Noir from its native Burgundy, the Tacna version develops its own distinct identity while sharing the varietal family profile.Tip: Pinot Noir is extremely rare in Peru. Finding it produced locally in Tacna is a testament to the region's commitment to serious viticulture.
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8When reading bodega wine labels, look for the stories they tell. The Marqués Cariñoso labels feature 'El Centauro' Gregorio Albarracín — a nearly two-meter-tall Tacneño resistance fighter with a giant beard who fought Chilean forces in Pachía during the occupation — and the 'Mujer Tacneña', honoring the women who maintained Peruvian patriotism and identity during the occupation period. The label shape itself carries meaning — look for the arch silhouette.Tip: Great wine labels are windows into regional culture and history. The Viñas del Marqués line was designed with the mission of showing Peru — and the world — what Tacna produces, reflecting its land, grapes, producers, and people.
Cultural Context
Tacna is Peru's southernmost city and one of the country's most important viticulture regions. Unlike other Peruvian cities where typical dishes are eaten with beer or chicha de jora, Tacna is unique in having a deeply rooted wine culture — locals traditionally pair their typical dishes with wine. The Marqués Cariñoso bodega, founded in 1987, represents this tradition, producing wines from local grape varieties like Negra Criolla (also called 'vino de chacra', the traditional field wine enjoyed with spicy dishes) alongside more internationally recognized varietals like Moscato de Austria and Pinot Noir. Pisco production uses copper alembic stills (alambique de cobre) as required by Peruvian technical standards, and pisco must rest a minimum of 3–6 months before bottling. The bodega's wine labels honor Tacna's patriotic history, depicting 'El Centauro' Gregorio Albarracín — a nearly two-meter-tall resistance fighter who defended Peru during the Chilean occupation — and the 'Mujer Tacneña', the women who kept Peruvian identity alive during the occupation period.