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Chiclayano Cuisine Guide — Pueblo Viejo Restaurant Review
Giacomo Bocchio visits Pueblo Viejo, a Chiclayano restaurant in Miraflores, Lima, owned by chef Cecilia Ríos. Joined by chef Pati Chong and Nelly Rossinelli, he explores authentic Lambayeque cuisine including ceviche with zarandaja bean purée, tortitas de choclo made with yolk for crispiness, chinguirito (ancestral sun-dried fish ceviche), cabrito de leche braised with chicha de jora, and palabritas sudadas. A masterclass in northern Peruvian coastal gastronomy with practical tips on ingredient preparation and traditional serving styles.
Ingredients
No ingredients listed
Steps
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1Tortitas de choclo: Use only egg yolks (not whole eggs) in the corn batter. This keeps the tortitas crispier for longer and allows them to hold up as edible scoops for ceviche without getting soggy from the leche de tigre.Tip: Cecilia Ríos's signature technique — yolks give better texture to resist moisture from ceviche
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2Chinguirito (sun-dried fish ceviche): Hydrate the dried fish for only 5 minutes by rinsing with salted water. Then dress generously with lime juice, plenty of cilantro, and ají limo. The key is finding the right hydration — too much soaking makes it watery, too little leaves it tough.Tip: 5 minutes with salted water is the secret — this is an ancestral dish dating to Señor de Sipán era
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3Papa prensada (Chiclayano pressed potato): Cook potatoes and press them into a compact form. Season only with salt, pepper, and olive oil — no ají, no lime. Unlike Lima's causa, this is a pure expression of the potato served as a side to ceviche.Tip: In Chiclayo, boiled potato is never served sliced — always pressed since birth, says Cecilia
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4Ceviche with zarandaja purée: Serve ceviche (charela/corvina) atop a bed of zarandaja bean purée. Mix the fish, purée, and tortitas de choclo all together — this is the authentic Chiclayano way of eating ceviche, everything combined as one bite.Tip: Zarandaja is a bean variety traditional to Lambayeque fishing villages, a great protein source
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5Bongle (Chiclayano fish sudado): Make a simple sudado with ají panca, a touch of ají amarillo, garlic, and cilantro. Place corn husk (pancas de choclo) as a bed under the fish before steaming — this imparts a distinctive smoky corn aroma to the dish.Tip: Bongle is the Chiclayano name for this corn-husk steamed fish sudado — uses palabritas (small clams from Ciudad de Eten)
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6Cabrito de leche: Use milk-fed kid goat (under 3 months old, fed only on mother's milk) for the most tender meat. Braise with chicha de jora and loche squash until the meat falls apart. Serve with arroz alverjado (rice loaded with fresh green peas) and frejoles with olive oil drizzled on top.Tip: Cabrito lechal (milk-fed only) is key — all ingredients sourced from Chiclayo for authenticity
Cultural Context
Chiclayo, capital of the Lambayeque region in northern Peru, has one of the country's most distinctive regional cuisines rooted in Moche and Sipán heritage. Dishes like chinguirito (sun-dried fish ceviche) trace back to pre-Columbian times — Cecilia Ríos notes it was served at the table of the Lord of Sipán, originally made with sour orange before limes. The zarandaja bean, a staple in Lambayeque fishing villages (caletas), is served as a purée alongside ceviche. Tortitas de choclo function as edible scoops — a traditional Chiclayano way of eating ceviche. The pressed potato (papa prensada) replaces sliced boiled potato, seasoned only with salt, pepper, and olive oil — distinct from Lima's causa. Cabrito de leche (milk-fed kid goat under 3 months) braised with chicha de jora and loche squash is the region's signature dish. Pueblo Viejo, located on Av. Paseo de la República 5628 in Miraflores, brings this tradition to Lima.